Many are the middling Middle Eastern restaurants in Denver, palaces of subpar shawarma and flavorless falafel. So, when a contender comes along that's better than average (or in the case of Phoenician Kabob, much better than average), a dining critic's heart goes all aflutter.
It's been a year and change since my first visit to Phoenician Kabob, and I still remember the occasion vividly. It was a sunny day, the kind of day that shows off East Colfax Avenue at its rock 'n' roll best — and its missing-hubcaps worst.
Lunchtime was nigh, and, faced with a growling stomach, a low gas tank and only a few bills in my pocket, I had to choose from the dozens of storefront eateries along this storied strip. Would I visit Yoisho for gyoza dumplings? Would I grab a hot dog at Steve's Snappin'? Would I score some shiro wot at Habesha?
I chose Phoenician Kabob.
And as it turned out, I chose well. After an energetic, herby-sharp plate of fattoush (chopped tomato, cucumber, parsley, fresh and dried herbs, warm pita croutons in a sharp, lemony dressing) and a pita stuffed with crispy-soft falafels and garlicky hummus, and a wedge of baklava (more on this later), I paid about $12 and left the joint happy and eager to return...... <more>
